13 New Messages
Digest #9357
Messages
Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:54 pm (PST) . Posted by:
"N.A. Nada"
Everything that Tod said, is correct, IF...
If you are purchasing a refub directly from Apple, only.
Purchasing from a reseller, can be a good deal, but you will not get a 1 year warranty or the ability to purchase AppleCare. If you purchase from an Authorized Apple Reseller who relays you to the Apple Store, then it is the same as buying from Apple. If you buy a refurb from a reseller like PowerMax, you are not buying from Apple. Don't get me wrong, I have bought refurbs from PowerMax, and it was a good machine and deal.
I'm just saying that not all refurbs are alike,.
Brent
On Jan 28, 2013, at 6:59 AM, T Hopkins wrote:
Refurbished iMacs are generally a good deal. They are for all intents and purposes identical to "new" except for the packaging and the price. I've purchased many refurbs.
That said, you need to be careful about precisely what machine you are getting as refurbs may or may not be current models and it can sometimes be difficult to compare specs in the refurb store and compare to the current machines. Whether a refurb is a "good deal" is entirely subjective based on your particular needs so the specs are important. Machines that look identical to new machines may not be. Examine the description carefully. The application "Apptracker" can help pin down the details and includes benchmarks to compare models.
The refurb store also changes constantly and sometimes very fast. If you see something that looks perfect, move quickly. The best "deals" disappear quickly. If you don't see what you want today, it could appear tomorrow.
Cheers,
tod
On Jan 26, 2013, at 5:02 PM, Dolores wrote:
> I have a friend who doesn't like the new iMacs. Are the refurbished iMacs from Apple a good deal? What are his best options?
>
> dolores
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------
Group FAQ:
http://www.macsupportcentral.com/policies/ >
Yahoo! Groups Links
If you are purchasing a refub directly from Apple, only.
Purchasing from a reseller, can be a good deal, but you will not get a 1 year warranty or the ability to purchase AppleCare. If you purchase from an Authorized Apple Reseller who relays you to the Apple Store, then it is the same as buying from Apple. If you buy a refurb from a reseller like PowerMax, you are not buying from Apple. Don't get me wrong, I have bought refurbs from PowerMax, and it was a good machine and deal.
I'm just saying that not all refurbs are alike,.
Brent
On Jan 28, 2013, at 6:59 AM, T Hopkins wrote:
Refurbished iMacs are generally a good deal. They are for all intents and purposes identical to "new" except for the packaging and the price. I've purchased many refurbs.
That said, you need to be careful about precisely what machine you are getting as refurbs may or may not be current models and it can sometimes be difficult to compare specs in the refurb store and compare to the current machines. Whether a refurb is a "good deal" is entirely subjective based on your particular needs so the specs are important. Machines that look identical to new machines may not be. Examine the description carefully. The application "Apptracker&qu
The refurb store also changes constantly and sometimes very fast. If you see something that looks perfect, move quickly. The best "deals" disappear quickly. If you don't see what you want today, it could appear tomorrow.
Cheers,
tod
On Jan 26, 2013, at 5:02 PM, Dolores wrote:
> I have a friend who doesn't like the new iMacs. Are the refurbished iMacs from Apple a good deal? What are his best options?
>
> dolores
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------
Group FAQ:
http://www.macsuppo
Yahoo! Groups Links
Tue Jan 29, 2013 3:00 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Otto Nikolaus" nikyzf
On 28 January 2013 23:37, Daly Jessup jessup@san.rr.com > wrote:
>
> My understanding is much the same: refurbs have, of course, gone through
the usual checks when manufactured and having been returned (and possibly
repaired), are checked all over again. Whether this is more thorough than
the first time, I don't know, but it is at least an extra set of tests.
Otto
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> My understanding is much the same: refurbs have, of course, gone through
the usual checks when manufactured and having been returned (and possibly
repaired), are checked all over again. Whether this is more thorough than
the first time, I don't know, but it is at least an extra set of tests.
Otto
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:29 am (PST) . Posted by:
"T Hopkins" todhop
Oh, totally! I should have said that! I recommend purchasing from the Apple Refurb Store. I do NOT recommend purchasing Apple "factory" Refurbs from anyone other than Apple. These are generally bad deals. In my experience, the better deal on the same machine will come from Apple.
I am not warning against the highly respected dealers of "used" machines. There is nothing wrong with used machines which may be "refurbished." Refurb is a tricky term. Refurbished generally means a used item that has been restored to warrantable condition. The distinction "factory" refurbished usually means a machine that has been restored to near "new" condition by the original manufacturer and shows little sign of wear. Even then, it is only as good as the reputation of the manufacturer. I have found Apple refurbs meet the highest standards, consistently appearing "as good as new." More importantly, Apple is the only company I've encountered that warrants their "refurbished" products identically to new items and delivers them with all the same accessories.
While I'm hesitant to believe refurbs are any MORE reliable than new product, there is one possible advantage. Refurbished machines sometimes appear in configurations that are an improvement from their original "new" condition, such as having larger or faster drives, or a better graphics card, but without the cost premium that would have been when new. This is where the "better deal" can be found. And sometimes refurbs are a way of getting something that is no longer available new, like a machine with an older version of the OS or ports that are not on newer machines.
Cheers,
tod
On Jan 28, 2013, at 11:54 PM, N.A. Nada wrote:
> Everything that Tod said, is correct, IF...
>
> If you are purchasing a refub directly from Apple, only.
>
> Purchasing from a reseller, can be a good deal, but you will not get a 1 year warranty or the ability to purchase AppleCare. If you purchase from an Authorized Apple Reseller who relays you to the Apple Store, then it is the same as buying from Apple. If you buy a refurb from a reseller like PowerMax, you are not buying from Apple. Don't get me wrong, I have bought refurbs from PowerMax, and it was a good machine and deal.
>
> I'm just saying that not all refurbs are alike,.
>
> Brent
>
> On Jan 28, 2013, at 6:59 AM, T Hopkins wrote:
>
> Refurbished iMacs are generally a good deal. They are for all intents and purposes identical to "new" except for the packaging and the price. I've purchased many refurbs.
>
> That said, you need to be careful about precisely what machine you are getting as refurbs may or may not be current models and it can sometimes be difficult to compare specs in the refurb store and compare to the current machines. Whether a refurb is a "good deal" is entirely subjective based on your particular needs so the specs are important. Machines that look identical to new machines may not be. Examine the description carefully. The application "Apptracker" can help pin down the details and includes benchmarks to compare models.
>
> The refurb store also changes constantly and sometimes very fast. If you see something that looks perfect, move quickly. The best "deals" disappear quickly. If you don't see what you want today, it could appear tomorrow.
>
> Cheers,
> tod
>
> On Jan 26, 2013, at 5:02 PM, Dolores wrote:
>
> > I have a friend who doesn't like the new iMacs. Are the refurbished iMacs from Apple a good deal? What are his best options?
> >
> > dolores
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Group FAQ:
> http://www.macsupportcentral.com/policies/ >
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am not warning against the highly respected dealers of "used" machines. There is nothing wrong with used machines which may be "refurbished.
While I'm hesitant to believe refurbs are any MORE reliable than new product, there is one possible advantage. Refurbished machines sometimes appear in configurations that are an improvement from their original "new" condition, such as having larger or faster drives, or a better graphics card, but without the cost premium that would have been when new. This is where the "better deal" can be found. And sometimes refurbs are a way of getting something that is no longer available new, like a machine with an older version of the OS or ports that are not on newer machines.
Cheers,
tod
On Jan 28, 2013, at 11:54 PM, N.A. Nada wrote:
> Everything that Tod said, is correct, IF...
>
> If you are purchasing a refub directly from Apple, only.
>
> Purchasing from a reseller, can be a good deal, but you will not get a 1 year warranty or the ability to purchase AppleCare. If you purchase from an Authorized Apple Reseller who relays you to the Apple Store, then it is the same as buying from Apple. If you buy a refurb from a reseller like PowerMax, you are not buying from Apple. Don't get me wrong, I have bought refurbs from PowerMax, and it was a good machine and deal.
>
> I'm just saying that not all refurbs are alike,.
>
> Brent
>
> On Jan 28, 2013, at 6:59 AM, T Hopkins wrote:
>
> Refurbished iMacs are generally a good deal. They are for all intents and purposes identical to "new" except for the packaging and the price. I've purchased many refurbs.
>
> That said, you need to be careful about precisely what machine you are getting as refurbs may or may not be current models and it can sometimes be difficult to compare specs in the refurb store and compare to the current machines. Whether a refurb is a "good deal" is entirely subjective based on your particular needs so the specs are important. Machines that look identical to new machines may not be. Examine the description carefully. The application "Apptracker&qu
>
> The refurb store also changes constantly and sometimes very fast. If you see something that looks perfect, move quickly. The best "deals" disappear quickly. If you don't see what you want today, it could appear tomorrow.
>
> Cheers,
> tod
>
> On Jan 26, 2013, at 5:02 PM, Dolores wrote:
>
> > I have a friend who doesn't like the new iMacs. Are the refurbished iMacs from Apple a good deal? What are his best options?
> >
> > dolores
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------
>
> Group FAQ:
> http://www.macsuppo
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:56 pm (PST) . Posted by:
"Daly Jessup" dalyjessup
On Jan 28, 2013, at 5:20 PM, Doris wrote:
> We have an older (2005?) iMac20; can I use migration assistant to transfer
> data to a new 21.5?
>
> If so, how is it done?
That's not much information, but here's an article.
http://support.
Basically, be sure you have a firewire cable or an ethernet cable to connect the two computers. Have the older computer off but connected by the cable to the new computer when you start up the new computer for the first time. Then just follow the screen instructions.
Daly
Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:11 pm (PST) . Posted by:
"N.A. Nada"
Doug, could you explain point one.
Restart with Option allows you to select to boot into Mac or Windows. Are you saying that ReFit would allow you to select which of the Windows partitions within BootCamp?
Brent
On Jan 28, 2013, at 1:55 AM, Douglas Neale wrote:
Just a quick email to aid potential Bootcamp users that once you have
created your Bootcamp partition that if you intend to add more than one
copy of windows there are a few things you might like to know:
1) Install 'Refit' as it allows you to select Mac or Windows when
booting, and if all goes pear-shaped the ALT key reboot retriggers it.
2) Once you have a Windows compatible partition you can use windows own
partitioning tool to subdivide it, allowing more than one version of
windows to be installed.
3) If you want to run XP and one or more later versions of windows, you
must install XP first then add Vista, Win7 etc afterwards to their own
partitions so that you can boot into any of them afterwards, as they use
different boot techniques.
4) If you are going to run a mixture of Windows versions such as XP and
Win 7 some form of boot management such as EasyBCD could be useful.
5) My own preference for backup, restore and cloning various versions of
Windows from XP to Win7 (but not Win8 yet) is HyperOS, which is not a
freebie, but is worthwhile if you have several different versions of
windows , especialy with multiple drives.
6) If you have more than one hard drive, you do not have to install
MacOSX on the second drive and then 'Bootcamp' it, unless you want
another OSX partition. You can use your first Windows system to format
and partition it. However, I must admit it is a nice way to have
different versions of OSX on the machine and keep them separate.
I have been using Bootcamp on my old MacPro for several years, and it is
the best PC I have ever had.
HTH
Doug Neale
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Restart with Option allows you to select to boot into Mac or Windows. Are you saying that ReFit would allow you to select which of the Windows partitions within BootCamp?
Brent
On Jan 28, 2013, at 1:55 AM, Douglas Neale wrote:
Just a quick email to aid potential Bootcamp users that once you have
created your Bootcamp partition that if you intend to add more than one
copy of windows there are a few things you might like to know:
1) Install 'Refit&#
booting, and if all goes pear-shaped the ALT key reboot retriggers it.
2) Once you have a Windows compatible partition you can use windows own
partitioning tool to subdivide it, allowing more than one version of
windows to be installed.
3) If you want to run XP and one or more later versions of windows, you
must install XP first then add Vista, Win7 etc afterwards to their own
partitions so that you can boot into any of them afterwards, as they use
different boot techniques.
4) If you are going to run a mixture of Windows versions such as XP and
Win 7 some form of boot management such as EasyBCD could be useful.
5) My own preference for backup, restore and cloning various versions of
Windows from XP to Win7 (but not Win8 yet) is HyperOS, which is not a
freebie, but is worthwhile if you have several different versions of
windows , especialy with multiple drives.
6) If you have more than one hard drive, you do not have to install
MacOSX on the second drive and then 'Bootcamp&#
another OSX partition. You can use your first Windows system to format
and partition it. However, I must admit it is a nice way to have
different versions of OSX on the machine and keep them separate.
I have been using Bootcamp on my old MacPro for several years, and it is
the best PC I have ever had.
HTH
Doug Neale
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:06 pm (PST) . Posted by:
"HAL9000" jrswebhome
SimplyBurn worked first time every time, but I thank you for your experiment. jr
--- In macsupportcentral@yahoogroups.com , Denver Dan wrote:
>
> Howdy.
>
> I just did a test and burned 3 .mkv videos to a DVD-R RW disc.
>
> The burn worked just fine. I just played one of the videos on the DVD
> disc and it played OK.
>
> So. Here were the steps I used and also a couple of notes.
>
> 1. Create a new burn folder.
> In Finder choose File menu and New burn folder.
>
> A new folder should appear on the Desktop named Burn Folder.fpbf
>
> 2. Drag your files and a couple of mkv videos to this Burn Folder.
> Remember to keep the total file size to the size of the blank DVD disc.
>
> 3. Insert a blank DVD disc.
> Wait for it to do it's thing.
>
> 4. Choose Burn Burn Folder.fpbf command from Finder's File menu.
>
> You should see a progress bar as it burns and then a 2nd progress bar
> as it verifies.
>
> That's it.
>
> So why won't this work for you?
>
> Some possibilities are:
>
> Bad, dirty, or scratched or damaged DVD disc.
> BTW, I use micro fiber clothes to clean the data side of optical
> discs.
>
> It's possible to get a box or cake box spindle of bad optical discs all
> made in the same batch and all problematic. This has happened to me.
>
> Incompatible brand of DVD disc. Happers fairly often especially when
> using more exotic media such as BD-RE DL discs, printable double layer
> DVD discs, etc.
>
> I've had some problems with Memorex brand discs on my Mac system.
> After experimenting with 10 to 12 brands of optical discs I settled on
> Verbatim brand and for single layer DVD-R printable the Sony brand.
> Verbatim also works well for me with DVD single layer discs.
>
> If you use RW or ReWritable discs, there can be some issues when they
> are erased. You may find that if you burn a DVD-RW using the Finder's
> built in burn command and then later you want to add to this disc, you
> copy the contents back to your HD and then use Disk Utility to erase
> the disc. Here's the fly in the ointment for erasing. If you then
> start using a 3rd party burn program, you may need to do a full erase
> (not a quick erase) of the previously Finder burned DVD-RW using the
> new 3rd party program you buy. RW discs can be a problem when you
> attempt to use them with different burning and erasing programs.
>
> I have owned Roxio's Toast Titanium burning (and much more) program for
> many years and use it to do all my burning and erasing but I have run
> into this problem with doing a Quick Erase and it not working on Toast
> if the disc had previously been burned via Finder's burn command.
> It's not a permanent problem because you can use the 3rd party burn
> program to do a Full Erase and the disc should then start working fine
> via the 3rd party program.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Denver Dan
>
>
> On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 22:49:35 +0000, HAL9000 wrote:
> > 27" iMac10,1/3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo/12gig RAM/OSX10.8.2/1 TBHD
> >
> > Memorex DVD+RDL (8x, 8.5GB, 240min)
> >
> > I moved several m4v movie files (apps. 5GB data) to the desktop into
> > a folder.
> > Opened Disk Utility, clicked Burn, finder window opens for me to
> > identify what files to burn to the blank DVD.
> >
> > Why are the movie files unrecognized by Disk Utility? It's like Disk
> > Utility doesn't see them as burnable data files. They will have
> > plenty of room on the DVD.
> >
> > jr
>
--- In macsupportcentral@
>
> Howdy.
>
> I just did a test and burned 3 .mkv videos to a DVD-R RW disc.
>
> The burn worked just fine. I just played one of the videos on the DVD
> disc and it played OK.
>
> So. Here were the steps I used and also a couple of notes.
>
> 1. Create a new burn folder.
> In Finder choose File menu and New burn folder.
>
> A new folder should appear on the Desktop named Burn Folder.fpbf
>
> 2. Drag your files and a couple of mkv videos to this Burn Folder.
> Remember to keep the total file size to the size of the blank DVD disc.
>
> 3. Insert a blank DVD disc.
> Wait for it to do it's thing.
>
> 4. Choose Burn Burn Folder.fpbf command from Finder's File menu.
>
> You should see a progress bar as it burns and then a 2nd progress bar
> as it verifies.
>
> That's it.
>
> So why won't this work for you?
>
> Some possibilities are:
>
> Bad, dirty, or scratched or damaged DVD disc.
> BTW, I use micro fiber clothes to clean the data side of optical
> discs.
>
> It's possible to get a box or cake box spindle of bad optical discs all
> made in the same batch and all problematic. This has happened to me.
>
> Incompatible brand of DVD disc. Happers fairly often especially when
> using more exotic media such as BD-RE DL discs, printable double layer
> DVD discs, etc.
>
> I've had some problems with Memorex brand discs on my Mac system.
> After experimenting with 10 to 12 brands of optical discs I settled on
> Verbatim brand and for single layer DVD-R printable the Sony brand.
> Verbatim also works well for me with DVD single layer discs.
>
> If you use RW or ReWritable discs, there can be some issues when they
> are erased. You may find that if you burn a DVD-RW using the Finder's
> built in burn command and then later you want to add to this disc, you
> copy the contents back to your HD and then use Disk Utility to erase
> the disc. Here's the fly in the ointment for erasing. If you then
> start using a 3rd party burn program, you may need to do a full erase
> (not a quick erase) of the previously Finder burned DVD-RW using the
> new 3rd party program you buy. RW discs can be a problem when you
> attempt to use them with different burning and erasing programs.
>
> I have owned Roxio's Toast Titanium burning (and much more) program for
> many years and use it to do all my burning and erasing but I have run
> into this problem with doing a Quick Erase and it not working on Toast
> if the disc had previously been burned via Finder's burn command.
> It's not a permanent problem because you can use the 3rd party burn
> program to do a Full Erase and the disc should then start working fine
> via the 3rd party program.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Denver Dan
>
>
> On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 22:49:35 +0000, HAL9000 wrote:
> > 27" iMac10,1/3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo/12gig RAM/OSX10.8.
> >
> > Memorex DVD+RDL (8x, 8.5GB, 240min)
> >
> > I moved several m4v movie files (apps. 5GB data) to the desktop into
> > a folder.
> > Opened Disk Utility, clicked Burn, finder window opens for me to
> > identify what files to burn to the blank DVD.
> >
> > Why are the movie files unrecognized by Disk Utility? It's like Disk
> > Utility doesn't see them as burnable data files. They will have
> > plenty of room on the DVD.
> >
> > jr
>
Tue Jan 29, 2013 2:55 pm (PST) . Posted by:
"HAL9000" jrswebhome
Dan, tried your method of creating the burn folder through the finder menu.
It worked. Appreciate your experiment. If burning through an Apple window menu or through the Disk Utility menu does not work any longer, why would they include them in the window menu's? But thanks for your experiment. John R
--- In macsupportcentral@yahoogroups.com , "HAL9000" wrote:
>
> SimplyBurn worked first time every time, but I thank you for your experiment. jr
>
> --- In macsupportcentral@yahoogroups.com , Denver Dan wrote:
> >
> > Howdy.
> >
> > I just did a test and burned 3 .mkv videos to a DVD-R RW disc.
> >
> > The burn worked just fine. I just played one of the videos on the DVD
> > disc and it played OK.
> >
> > So. Here were the steps I used and also a couple of notes.
> >
> > 1. Create a new burn folder.
> > In Finder choose File menu and New burn folder.
> >
> > A new folder should appear on the Desktop named Burn Folder.fpbf
> >
> > 2. Drag your files and a couple of mkv videos to this Burn Folder.
> > Remember to keep the total file size to the size of the blank DVD disc.
> >
> > 3. Insert a blank DVD disc.
> > Wait for it to do it's thing.
> >
> > 4. Choose Burn Burn Folder.fpbf command from Finder's File menu.
> >
> > You should see a progress bar as it burns and then a 2nd progress bar
> > as it verifies.
> >
> > That's it.
> >
> > So why won't this work for you?
> >
> > Some possibilities are:
> >
> > Bad, dirty, or scratched or damaged DVD disc.
> > BTW, I use micro fiber clothes to clean the data side of optical
> > discs.
> >
> > It's possible to get a box or cake box spindle of bad optical discs all
> > made in the same batch and all problematic. This has happened to me.
> >
> > Incompatible brand of DVD disc. Happers fairly often especially when
> > using more exotic media such as BD-RE DL discs, printable double layer
> > DVD discs, etc.
> >
> > I've had some problems with Memorex brand discs on my Mac system.
> > After experimenting with 10 to 12 brands of optical discs I settled on
> > Verbatim brand and for single layer DVD-R printable the Sony brand.
> > Verbatim also works well for me with DVD single layer discs.
> >
> > If you use RW or ReWritable discs, there can be some issues when they
> > are erased. You may find that if you burn a DVD-RW using the Finder's
> > built in burn command and then later you want to add to this disc, you
> > copy the contents back to your HD and then use Disk Utility to erase
> > the disc. Here's the fly in the ointment for erasing. If you then
> > start using a 3rd party burn program, you may need to do a full erase
> > (not a quick erase) of the previously Finder burned DVD-RW using the
> > new 3rd party program you buy. RW discs can be a problem when you
> > attempt to use them with different burning and erasing programs.
> >
> > I have owned Roxio's Toast Titanium burning (and much more) program for
> > many years and use it to do all my burning and erasing but I have run
> > into this problem with doing a Quick Erase and it not working on Toast
> > if the disc had previously been burned via Finder's burn command.
> > It's not a permanent problem because you can use the 3rd party burn
> > program to do a Full Erase and the disc should then start working fine
> > via the 3rd party program.
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Denver Dan
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 22:49:35 +0000, HAL9000 wrote:
> > > 27" iMac10,1/3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo/12gig RAM/OSX10.8.2/1 TBHD
> > >
> > > Memorex DVD+RDL (8x, 8.5GB, 240min)
> > >
> > > I moved several m4v movie files (apps. 5GB data) to the desktop into
> > > a folder.
> > > Opened Disk Utility, clicked Burn, finder window opens for me to
> > > identify what files to burn to the blank DVD.
> > >
> > > Why are the movie files unrecognized by Disk Utility? It's like Disk
> > > Utility doesn't see them as burnable data files. They will have
> > > plenty of room on the DVD.
> > >
> > > jr
> >
>
It worked. Appreciate your experiment. If burning through an Apple window menu or through the Disk Utility menu does not work any longer, why would they include them in the window menu's? But thanks for your experiment. John R
--- In macsupportcentral@
>
> SimplyBurn worked first time every time, but I thank you for your experiment. jr
>
> --- In macsupportcentral@
> >
> > Howdy.
> >
> > I just did a test and burned 3 .mkv videos to a DVD-R RW disc.
> >
> > The burn worked just fine. I just played one of the videos on the DVD
> > disc and it played OK.
> >
> > So. Here were the steps I used and also a couple of notes.
> >
> > 1. Create a new burn folder.
> > In Finder choose File menu and New burn folder.
> >
> > A new folder should appear on the Desktop named Burn Folder.fpbf
> >
> > 2. Drag your files and a couple of mkv videos to this Burn Folder.
> > Remember to keep the total file size to the size of the blank DVD disc.
> >
> > 3. Insert a blank DVD disc.
> > Wait for it to do it's thing.
> >
> > 4. Choose Burn Burn Folder.fpbf command from Finder's File menu.
> >
> > You should see a progress bar as it burns and then a 2nd progress bar
> > as it verifies.
> >
> > That's it.
> >
> > So why won't this work for you?
> >
> > Some possibilities are:
> >
> > Bad, dirty, or scratched or damaged DVD disc.
> > BTW, I use micro fiber clothes to clean the data side of optical
> > discs.
> >
> > It's possible to get a box or cake box spindle of bad optical discs all
> > made in the same batch and all problematic. This has happened to me.
> >
> > Incompatible brand of DVD disc. Happers fairly often especially when
> > using more exotic media such as BD-RE DL discs, printable double layer
> > DVD discs, etc.
> >
> > I've had some problems with Memorex brand discs on my Mac system.
> > After experimenting with 10 to 12 brands of optical discs I settled on
> > Verbatim brand and for single layer DVD-R printable the Sony brand.
> > Verbatim also works well for me with DVD single layer discs.
> >
> > If you use RW or ReWritable discs, there can be some issues when they
> > are erased. You may find that if you burn a DVD-RW using the Finder's
> > built in burn command and then later you want to add to this disc, you
> > copy the contents back to your HD and then use Disk Utility to erase
> > the disc. Here's the fly in the ointment for erasing. If you then
> > start using a 3rd party burn program, you may need to do a full erase
> > (not a quick erase) of the previously Finder burned DVD-RW using the
> > new 3rd party program you buy. RW discs can be a problem when you
> > attempt to use them with different burning and erasing programs.
> >
> > I have owned Roxio's Toast Titanium burning (and much more) program for
> > many years and use it to do all my burning and erasing but I have run
> > into this problem with doing a Quick Erase and it not working on Toast
> > if the disc had previously been burned via Finder's burn command.
> > It's not a permanent problem because you can use the 3rd party burn
> > program to do a Full Erase and the disc should then start working fine
> > via the 3rd party program.
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Denver Dan
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 22:49:35 +0000, HAL9000 wrote:
> > > 27" iMac10,1/3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo/12gig RAM/OSX10.8.
> > >
> > > Memorex DVD+RDL (8x, 8.5GB, 240min)
> > >
> > > I moved several m4v movie files (apps. 5GB data) to the desktop into
> > > a folder.
> > > Opened Disk Utility, clicked Burn, finder window opens for me to
> > > identify what files to burn to the blank DVD.
> > >
> > > Why are the movie files unrecognized by Disk Utility? It's like Disk
> > > Utility doesn't see them as burnable data files. They will have
> > > plenty of room on the DVD.
> > >
> > > jr
> >
>
Tue Jan 29, 2013 6:06 pm (PST) . Posted by:
"Denver Dan" denverdan22180
Howdy
Glad it worked.
I think it would work also in Disk Utility but with more steps.
I don't know what you mean by "burning through an Apple window menu."
Denver Dan
[|][|][|][|][|][|][|][|][|][|][|][|][|][|][|][|][|][|]
iSent from iDan's iPhone
On Jan 29, 2013, at 5:55 PM, "HAL9000" jrswebhome@yahoo.com > wrote:
> Dan, tried your method of creating the burn folder through the finder menu.
> It worked. Appreciate your experiment. If burning through an Apple window menu or through the Disk Utility menu does not work any longer, why would they include them in the window menu's? But thanks for your experiment. John R
>
> --- In macsupportcentral@yahoogroups.com , "HAL9000" wrote:
>>
>> SimplyBurn worked first time every time, but I thank you for your experiment. jr
>>
>> --- In macsupportcentral@yahoogroups.com , Denver Dan wrote:
>>>
>>> Howdy.
>>>
>>> I just did a test and burned 3 .mkv videos to a DVD-R RW disc.
>>>
>>> The burn worked just fine. I just played one of the videos on the DVD
>>> disc and it played OK.
>>>
>>> So. Here were the steps I used and also a couple of notes.
>>>
>>> 1. Create a new burn folder.
>>> In Finder choose File menu and New burn folder.
>>>
>>> A new folder should appear on the Desktop named Burn Folder.fpbf
>>>
>>> 2. Drag your files and a couple of mkv videos to this Burn Folder.
>>> Remember to keep the total file size to the size of the blank DVD disc.
>>>
>>> 3. Insert a blank DVD disc.
>>> Wait for it to do it's thing.
>>>
>>> 4. Choose Burn Burn Folder.fpbf command from Finder's File menu.
>>>
>>> You should see a progress bar as it burns and then a 2nd progress bar
>>> as it verifies.
>>>
>>> That's it.
>>>
>>> So why won't this work for you?
>>>
>>> Some possibilities are:
>>>
>>> Bad, dirty, or scratched or damaged DVD disc.
>>> BTW, I use micro fiber clothes to clean the data side of optical
>>> discs.
>>>
>>> It's possible to get a box or cake box spindle of bad optical discs all
>>> made in the same batch and all problematic. This has happened to me.
>>>
>>> Incompatible brand of DVD disc. Happers fairly often especially when
>>> using more exotic media such as BD-RE DL discs, printable double layer
>>> DVD discs, etc.
>>>
>>> I've had some problems with Memorex brand discs on my Mac system.
>>> After experimenting with 10 to 12 brands of optical discs I settled on
>>> Verbatim brand and for single layer DVD-R printable the Sony brand.
>>> Verbatim also works well for me with DVD single layer discs.
>>>
>>> If you use RW or ReWritable discs, there can be some issues when they
>>> are erased. You may find that if you burn a DVD-RW using the Finder's
>>> built in burn command and then later you want to add to this disc, you
>>> copy the contents back to your HD and then use Disk Utility to erase
>>> the disc. Here's the fly in the ointment for erasing. If you then
>>> start using a 3rd party burn program, you may need to do a full erase
>>> (not a quick erase) of the previously Finder burned DVD-RW using the
>>> new 3rd party program you buy. RW discs can be a problem when you
>>> attempt to use them with different burning and erasing programs.
>>>
>>> I have owned Roxio's Toast Titanium burning (and much more) program for
>>> many years and use it to do all my burning and erasing but I have run
>>> into this problem with doing a Quick Erase and it not working on Toast
>>> if the disc had previously been burned via Finder's burn command.
>>> It's not a permanent problem because you can use the 3rd party burn
>>> program to do a Full Erase and the disc should then start working fine
>>> via the 3rd party program.
>>>
>>> Good luck!
>>>
>>> Denver Dan
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 22:49:35 +0000, HAL9000 wrote:
>>>> 27" iMac10,1/3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo/12gig RAM/OSX10.8.2/1 TBHD
>>>>
>>>> Memorex DVD+RDL (8x, 8.5GB, 240min)
>>>>
>>>> I moved several m4v movie files (apps. 5GB data) to the desktop into
>>>> a folder.
>>>> Opened Disk Utility, clicked Burn, finder window opens for me to
>>>> identify what files to burn to the blank DVD.
>>>>
>>>> Why are the movie files unrecognized by Disk Utility? It's like Disk
>>>> Utility doesn't see them as burnable data files. They will have
>>>> plenty of room on the DVD.
>>>>
>>>> jr
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Group FAQ:
> http://www.macsupportcentral.com/policies/ >
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Glad it worked.
I think it would work also in Disk Utility but with more steps.
I don't know what you mean by "burning through an Apple window menu."
Denver Dan
[|][|][|][|]
iSent from iDan's iPhone
On Jan 29, 2013, at 5:55 PM, "HAL9000" jrswebhome@yahoo.
> Dan, tried your method of creating the burn folder through the finder menu.
> It worked. Appreciate your experiment. If burning through an Apple window menu or through the Disk Utility menu does not work any longer, why would they include them in the window menu's? But thanks for your experiment. John R
>
> --- In macsupportcentral@
>>
>> SimplyBurn worked first time every time, but I thank you for your experiment. jr
>>
>> --- In macsupportcentral@
>>>
>>> Howdy.
>>>
>>> I just did a test and burned 3 .mkv videos to a DVD-R RW disc.
>>>
>>> The burn worked just fine. I just played one of the videos on the DVD
>>> disc and it played OK.
>>>
>>> So. Here were the steps I used and also a couple of notes.
>>>
>>> 1. Create a new burn folder.
>>> In Finder choose File menu and New burn folder.
>>>
>>> A new folder should appear on the Desktop named Burn Folder.fpbf
>>>
>>> 2. Drag your files and a couple of mkv videos to this Burn Folder.
>>> Remember to keep the total file size to the size of the blank DVD disc.
>>>
>>> 3. Insert a blank DVD disc.
>>> Wait for it to do it's thing.
>>>
>>> 4. Choose Burn Burn Folder.fpbf command from Finder's File menu.
>>>
>>> You should see a progress bar as it burns and then a 2nd progress bar
>>> as it verifies.
>>>
>>> That's it.
>>>
>>> So why won't this work for you?
>>>
>>> Some possibilities are:
>>>
>>> Bad, dirty, or scratched or damaged DVD disc.
>>> BTW, I use micro fiber clothes to clean the data side of optical
>>> discs.
>>>
>>> It's possible to get a box or cake box spindle of bad optical discs all
>>> made in the same batch and all problematic. This has happened to me.
>>>
>>> Incompatible brand of DVD disc. Happers fairly often especially when
>>> using more exotic media such as BD-RE DL discs, printable double layer
>>> DVD discs, etc.
>>>
>>> I've had some problems with Memorex brand discs on my Mac system.
>>> After experimenting with 10 to 12 brands of optical discs I settled on
>>> Verbatim brand and for single layer DVD-R printable the Sony brand.
>>> Verbatim also works well for me with DVD single layer discs.
>>>
>>> If you use RW or ReWritable discs, there can be some issues when they
>>> are erased. You may find that if you burn a DVD-RW using the Finder's
>>> built in burn command and then later you want to add to this disc, you
>>> copy the contents back to your HD and then use Disk Utility to erase
>>> the disc. Here's the fly in the ointment for erasing. If you then
>>> start using a 3rd party burn program, you may need to do a full erase
>>> (not a quick erase) of the previously Finder burned DVD-RW using the
>>> new 3rd party program you buy. RW discs can be a problem when you
>>> attempt to use them with different burning and erasing programs.
>>>
>>> I have owned Roxio's Toast Titanium burning (and much more) program for
>>> many years and use it to do all my burning and erasing but I have run
>>> into this problem with doing a Quick Erase and it not working on Toast
>>> if the disc had previously been burned via Finder's burn command.
>>> It's not a permanent problem because you can use the 3rd party burn
>>> program to do a Full Erase and the disc should then start working fine
>>> via the 3rd party program.
>>>
>>> Good luck!
>>>
>>> Denver Dan
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, 23 Jan 2013 22:49:35 +0000, HAL9000 wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
> ------------
>
> Group FAQ:
> http://www.macsuppo
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Tue Jan 29, 2013 4:59 am (PST) . Posted by:
"T Hopkins" todhop
Update.
This morning, my iPhone did not show up in iTunes as it normally does, probably because I was negative in this thread. ;) I tried every trick I know short of restarting my laptop. Nothing. So I read the help file again. It's ever so slightly better now and I was reminded that you can initiate a sync from the phone. Never worked for me before, but what the heck.
Surprise! It worked. My device appeared in iTunes and promptly synced. So add that to your arsenal. On the phone: Settings, General, iTunes Syncing, Sync Now.
Truth in advertising. I don't find the function completely useless. I use it. It's just too fussy for most people in most situations so I don't recommend it unless you're prepared for that. It is not one of Apple's finer moments.
Cheers,
tod
On Jan 28, 2013, at 6:33 PM, Daly Jessup wrote:
>
> On Jan 28, 2013, at 7:20 AM, T Hopkins wrote:
>
> > I am the only person I know personally who has successfully used this function, including my three grown children who all say it's a "useless" feature. Many of the problems are networking issues not in your direct control. For instance, at work, iTunes sees my iPhone fine, but not at home. The difference is the router. Mac networking doesn't like the Verizon Actiontec router at home but it's fine with my work network.
> >
> > Here is how it's supposed to work. In theory, when you plug the iPhone into a power source, it wakes up briefly, and then iTunes, if it happens to be running sees it over Wi-fi, and if set to sync automatically, does so. How is this useful?
>
> Thanks for the helpful post. And I had come to the same conclusion. It's unnecessary, at least for me. My older iPhone definitely was seen in iTunes reliably. The new one isn't. So what. I just plug it in anyway.
>
> Daly
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
This morning, my iPhone did not show up in iTunes as it normally does, probably because I was negative in this thread. ;) I tried every trick I know short of restarting my laptop. Nothing. So I read the help file again. It's ever so slightly better now and I was reminded that you can initiate a sync from the phone. Never worked for me before, but what the heck.
Surprise! It worked. My device appeared in iTunes and promptly synced. So add that to your arsenal. On the phone: Settings, General, iTunes Syncing, Sync Now.
Truth in advertising. I don't find the function completely useless. I use it. It's just too fussy for most people in most situations so I don't recommend it unless you're prepared for that. It is not one of Apple's finer moments.
Cheers,
tod
On Jan 28, 2013, at 6:33 PM, Daly Jessup wrote:
>
> On Jan 28, 2013, at 7:20 AM, T Hopkins wrote:
>
> > I am the only person I know personally who has successfully used this function, including my three grown children who all say it's a "useless" feature. Many of the problems are networking issues not in your direct control. For instance, at work, iTunes sees my iPhone fine, but not at home. The difference is the router. Mac networking doesn't like the Verizon Actiontec router at home but it's fine with my work network.
> >
> > Here is how it's supposed to work. In theory, when you plug the iPhone into a power source, it wakes up briefly, and then iTunes, if it happens to be running sees it over Wi-fi, and if set to sync automatically, does so. How is this useful?
>
> Thanks for the helpful post. And I had come to the same conclusion. It's unnecessary, at least for me. My older iPhone definitely was seen in iTunes reliably. The new one isn't. So what. I just plug it in anyway.
>
> Daly
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Tue Jan 29, 2013 7:34 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Dave Kelly" imamacwizard
It seems to me that my iPhone and iPad syncing because intermittent (works sometimes) about the time we had the last IOS update.
On Jan 29, 2013, at 4:59 AM, T Hopkins wrote:
> Update.
>
> This morning, my iPhone did not show up in iTunes as it normally does, probably because I was negative in this thread. ;) I tried every trick I know short of restarting my laptop. Nothing. So I read the help file again. It's ever so slightly better now and I was reminded that you can initiate a sync from the phone. Never worked for me before, but what the heck.
>
> Surprise! It worked. My device appeared in iTunes and promptly synced. So add that to your arsenal. On the phone: Settings, General, iTunes Syncing, Sync Now.
>
> Truth in advertising. I don't find the function completely useless. I use it. It's just too fussy for most people in most situations so I don't recommend it unless you're prepared for that. It is not one of Apple's finer moments.
>
> Cheers,
> tod
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On Jan 29, 2013, at 4:59 AM, T Hopkins wrote:
> Update.
>
> This morning, my iPhone did not show up in iTunes as it normally does, probably because I was negative in this thread. ;) I tried every trick I know short of restarting my laptop. Nothing. So I read the help file again. It's ever so slightly better now and I was reminded that you can initiate a sync from the phone. Never worked for me before, but what the heck.
>
> Surprise! It worked. My device appeared in iTunes and promptly synced. So add that to your arsenal. On the phone: Settings, General, iTunes Syncing, Sync Now.
>
> Truth in advertising. I don't find the function completely useless. I use it. It's just too fussy for most people in most situations so I don't recommend it unless you're prepared for that. It is not one of Apple's finer moments.
>
> Cheers,
> tod
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Tue Jan 29, 2013 7:40 am (PST) . Posted by:
"Dave Clark" dave24c
Apparently, "Find my iPad" erase command has failed to work on my stolen iPad, despite the bad guys turning it on, accessing my Dropbox account, and being able to send an Email message.
Tuesday the 22nd the iPad was stolen. Within a couple of hours of discovering it Tuesday afternoon, I went into iCloud, marked the iPad as "lost" and inserted a phone number. Find my iPad showed the device as "offline." The next morning, Wednesday the 23rd, in iCloud the iPad was still shown as "offline." I gave the command to Wipe (Erase) the iPad. Then, three days later on Saturday, the 26th, someone "shared" a file with credit card info from my Dropbox account via Email from the iPad. I received a copy of that Email on that Saturday morning, and almost immediately notified my Bank on the credit card and it was cancelled. The Email's headers show that it was sent from the iPad.
This morning (the 29th) I went back into iCloud, and it shows that the iPad is "offline" AND that the erase command is "Pending." This can only mean that the iPad is still useable. And, it also means that the "Erase" command did not work despite the Dropbox account being accessed and Email being used.
Perhaps some of you have an idea why the Find my iPad "erase" command failed to work. Is there some sort of lengthy time-lag in Find my iPad that permits connection to the internet for a time? Perhaps there's a way to prevent the Find my iPad on the iPad from being accessed. Is there some way for the bad guys to block Find my iPad so that it won't work, for example, by blocking all incoming traffic at the router to which the machine is accessing the internet? I'm not very good at these sorts of things, and certainly no hacker, but it seems that if it's this easy to defeat Find my iPad, then it's basically worthless.
Thanks for all the help and comments.
BTW, my new iPad 4 is on its way. And, the first thing I'll do is set the passcode.
Dave Clark
Irvine, CA
http://www.clarklawfirm.com
http://daveclarkimages.smugmug.com
http://facebook.com/daveclarkimages/
© 2012 All Rights Reserved
Permission to copy on this Email list only.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Tuesday the 22nd the iPad was stolen. Within a couple of hours of discovering it Tuesday afternoon, I went into iCloud, marked the iPad as "lost" and inserted a phone number. Find my iPad showed the device as "offline." The next morning, Wednesday the 23rd, in iCloud the iPad was still shown as "offline." I gave the command to Wipe (Erase) the iPad. Then, three days later on Saturday, the 26th, someone "shared" a file with credit card info from my Dropbox account via Email from the iPad. I received a copy of that Email on that Saturday morning, and almost immediately notified my Bank on the credit card and it was cancelled. The Email's headers show that it was sent from the iPad.
This morning (the 29th) I went back into iCloud, and it shows that the iPad is "offline" AND that the erase command is "Pending." This can only mean that the iPad is still useable. And, it also means that the "Erase" command did not work despite the Dropbox account being accessed and Email being used.
Perhaps some of you have an idea why the Find my iPad "erase" command failed to work. Is there some sort of lengthy time-lag in Find my iPad that permits connection to the internet for a time? Perhaps there's a way to prevent the Find my iPad on the iPad from being accessed. Is there some way for the bad guys to block Find my iPad so that it won't work, for example, by blocking all incoming traffic at the router to which the machine is accessing the internet? I'm not very good at these sorts of things, and certainly no hacker, but it seems that if it's this easy to defeat Find my iPad, then it's basically worthless.
Thanks for all the help and comments.
BTW, my new iPad 4 is on its way. And, the first thing I'll do is set the passcode.
Dave Clark
Irvine, CA
http://www.clarklaw
http://daveclarkima
http://facebook.
© 2012 All Rights Reserved
Permission to copy on this Email list only.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Tue Jan 29, 2013 4:04 pm (PST) . Posted by:
"N.A. Nada"
Dave, why did you not change the Dropbox password, and why was your credit card information in readable form and not encrypted?
There is also a Lost Mode that will lock the iPad remotely, but I do not know if it will work any better than the Erase will. I would call Apple and ask them how it should work. Especially, before you set up your replacement. You may have to change your AppleID if they have had access to it, also. Remember, that changing your AppleID will cause you grief with your prior purchases.
And get an encrypted password safe app to store your passwords and credit card info. Think about contacting the rest of your credit card accounts, etcetera.
As you have found what is easy and convenient for you, is also easy and convenient for the thief.
Brent
On Jan 29, 2013, at 7:40 AM, Dave Clark wrote:
Apparently, „Find my iPad‰ erase command has failed to work on my stolen iPad, despite the bad guys turning it on, accessing my Dropbox account, and being able to send an Email message.
Tuesday the 22nd the iPad was stolen. Within a couple of hours of discovering it Tuesday afternoon, I went into iCloud, marked the iPad as „lost‰ and inserted a phone number. Find my iPad showed the device as „offline.‰ The next morning, Wednesday the 23rd, in iCloud the iPad was still shown as „offline.‰ I gave the command to Wipe (Erase) the iPad. Then, three days later on Saturday, the 26th, someone „shared‰ a file with credit card info from my Dropbox account via Email from the iPad. I received a copy of that Email on that Saturday morning, and almost immediately notified my Bank on the credit card and it was cancelled. The Email‚s headers show that it was sent from the iPad.
This morning (the 29th) I went back into iCloud, and it shows that the iPad is „offline‰ AND that the erase command is „Pending.‰ This can only mean that the iPad is still useable. And, it also means that the „Erase" command did not work despite the Dropbox account being accessed and Email being used.
Perhaps some of you have an idea why the Find my iPad „erase‰ command failed to work. Is there some sort of lengthy time-lag in Find my iPad that permits connection to the internet for a time? Perhaps there‚s a way to prevent the Find my iPad on the iPad from being accessed. Is there some way for the bad guys to block Find my iPad so that it won‚t work, for example, by blocking all incoming traffic at the router to which the machine is accessing the internet? I‚m not very good at these sorts of things, and certainly no hacker, but it seems that if it‚s this easy to defeat Find my iPad, then it‚s basically worthless.
Thanks for all the help and comments.
BTW, my new iPad 4 is on its way. And, the first thing I‚ll do is set the passcode.
Dave Clark
Irvine, CA
http://www.clarklawfirm.com
http://daveclarkimages.smugmug.com
http://facebook.com/daveclarkimages/
© 2012 All Rights Reserved
Permission to copy on this Email list only.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------
Group FAQ:
http://www.macsupportcentral.com/policies/ >
Yahoo! Groups Links
There is also a Lost Mode that will lock the iPad remotely, but I do not know if it will work any better than the Erase will. I would call Apple and ask them how it should work. Especially, before you set up your replacement. You may have to change your AppleID if they have had access to it, also. Remember, that changing your AppleID will cause you grief with your prior purchases.
And get an encrypted password safe app to store your passwords and credit card info. Think about contacting the rest of your credit card accounts, etcetera.
As you have found what is easy and convenient for you, is also easy and convenient for the thief.
Brent
On Jan 29, 2013, at 7:40 AM, Dave Clark wrote:
Apparently, „Find my iPad‰ erase command has failed to work on my stolen iPad, despite the bad guys turning it on, accessing my Dropbox account, and being able to send an Email message.
Tuesday the 22nd the iPad was stolen. Within a couple of hours of discovering it Tuesday afternoon, I went into iCloud, marked the iPad as „lost‰ and inserted a phone number. Find my iPad showed the device as „offline.‰ The next morning, Wednesday the 23rd, in iCloud the iPad was still shown as „offline.‰ I gave the command to Wipe (Erase) the iPad. Then, three days later on Saturday, the 26th, someone „shared‰ a file with credit card info from my Dropbox account via Email from the iPad. I received a copy of that Email on that Saturday morning, and almost immediately notified my Bank on the credit card and it was cancelled. The Email‚s headers show that it was sent from the iPad.
This morning (the 29th) I went back into iCloud, and it shows that the iPad is „offline‰ AND that the erase command is „Pending.‰ This can only mean that the iPad is still useable. And, it also means that the „Erase" command did not work despite the Dropbox account being accessed and Email being used.
Perhaps some of you have an idea why the Find my iPad „erase‰ command failed to work. Is there some sort of lengthy time-lag in Find my iPad that permits connection to the internet for a time? Perhaps there‚s a way to prevent the Find my iPad on the iPad from being accessed. Is there some way for the bad guys to block Find my iPad so that it won‚t work, for example, by blocking all incoming traffic at the router to which the machine is accessing the internet? I‚m not very good at these sorts of things, and certainly no hacker, but it seems that if it‚s this easy to defeat Find my iPad, then it‚s basically worthless.
Thanks for all the help and comments.
BTW, my new iPad 4 is on its way. And, the first thing I‚ll do is set the passcode.
Dave Clark
Irvine, CA
http://www.clarklaw
http://daveclarkima
http://facebook.
© 2012 All Rights Reserved
Permission to copy on this Email list only.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------
Group FAQ:
http://www.macsuppo
Yahoo! Groups Links
Tue Jan 29, 2013 2:56 pm (PST) . Posted by:
"Carol Corley" floridabouvs
Jim, good luck. I had cataract surgery, one eye in April, the other in May, and now I don't need glasses at all.
Carol
Jim Saklad wrote:
> My cataract (dominant left eye) gets replaced by an artificial lens this coming Thursday.
> I am hoping for greatly improved central acuity in that eye.
Sent from my iPad 3
Carol
Jim Saklad wrote:
> My cataract (dominant left eye) gets replaced by an artificial lens this coming Thursday.
> I am hoping for greatly improved central acuity in that eye.
Sent from my iPad 3
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