15 New Messages
Digest #9463
Messages
Fri Mar 29, 2013 5:24 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"Otto Nikolaus" nikyzf
On 29 March 2013 01:04, OBrien <bco@hiwaay.net> wrote:
>
> The label side IS the data side. The data is embedded (or whatever…I don't
> know how) into the material of the TOP (label side) of the disc. The bottom
> of the disc is just clear plastic material.
>
Eh? The data side of any CD or DVD is silver (aluminium actually, or gold
for some expensive ones) all over with a clear protective polycarbonate
covering. The other side is printed with either the album/film label for
commercial CDs/DVDs, or the manufacturer's info and space for the user to
write for R/RW discs.
How could they work if you are correct?
Otto
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> The label side IS the data side. The data is embedded (or whatever…I don't
> know how) into the material of the TOP (label side) of the disc. The bottom
> of the disc is just clear plastic material.
>
Eh? The data side of any CD or DVD is silver (aluminium actually, or gold
for some expensive ones) all over with a clear protective polycarbonate
covering. The other side is printed with either the album/film label for
commercial CDs/DVDs, or the manufacturer&#
write for R/RW discs.
How could they work if you are correct?
Otto
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:20 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"OBrien" conorboru
On Fri, 29 Mar 2013 12:24:32 +0000, Otto Nikolaus wrote:
> Eh? The data side of any CD or DVD is silver (aluminium actually, or gold
> for some expensive ones) all over with a clear protective polycarbonate
> covering. The other side is printed with either the album/film label for
> commercial CDs/DVDs, or the manufacturer's info and space for the user to
> write for R/RW discs.
I didn't mean that the data is at the +top+ of the label side, but it is a layer just under the label/metallic film. Here's an illustration (if attachments are allowed). If not, here's a link to the page.
<http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/cd1.htm >
----------
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
O'Brien ¡V¡V¡V ¡V... .-. .. . -.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Eh? The data side of any CD or DVD is silver (aluminium actually, or gold
> for some expensive ones) all over with a clear protective polycarbonate
> covering. The other side is printed with either the album/film label for
> commercial CDs/DVDs, or the manufacturer&#
> write for R/RW discs.
I didn't mean that the data is at the +top+ of the label side, but it is a layer just under the label/metallic film. Here's an illustration (if attachments are allowed). If not, here's a link to the page.
<http://electronics.
----------
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
O'Brien ¡V¡V¡V ¡V... .-. .. . -.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:38 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"keith_w" keith9600
Fantastic link. I am amazed at how small everything is. The technology
required (and delivered !) is even more unbelievable. What an engineering
job !!
keith whaley
On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 6:20 AM, OBrien <bco@hiwaay.net> wrote:
> **
>
>
> On Fri, 29 Mar 2013 12:24:32 +0000, Otto Nikolaus wrote:
> > Eh? The data side of any CD or DVD is silver (aluminium actually, or gold
> > for some expensive ones) all over with a clear protective polycarbonate
> > covering. The other side is printed with either the album/film label for
> > commercial CDs/DVDs, or the manufacturer's info and space for the user to
> > write for R/RW discs.
>
> I didn't mean that the data is at the +top+ of the label side, but it is a
> layer just under the label/metallic film. Here's an illustration (if
> attachments are allowed). If not, here's a link to the page.
>
> <http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/cd1.htm >
>
> ----------
>
>
>
> . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
>
> O'Brien â€"â€"â€" â€"... .-. .. . -.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
required (and delivered !) is even more unbelievable. What an engineering
job !!
keith whaley
On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 6:20 AM, OBrien <bco@hiwaay.net> wrote:
> **
>
>
> On Fri, 29 Mar 2013 12:24:32 +0000, Otto Nikolaus wrote:
> > Eh? The data side of any CD or DVD is silver (aluminium actually, or gold
> > for some expensive ones) all over with a clear protective polycarbonate
> > covering. The other side is printed with either the album/film label for
> > commercial CDs/DVDs, or the manufacturer&#
> > write for R/RW discs.
>
> I didn't mean that the data is at the +top+ of the label side, but it is a
> layer just under the label/metallic film. Here's an illustration (if
> attachments are allowed). If not, here's a link to the page.
>
> <http://electronics.
>
> ----------
>
>
>
> . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
>
> O'Brien â€"â€"â€" â€"... .-. .. . -.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:43 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"Otto Nikolaus" nikyzf
Indeed. Of course, DVD requires smaller pits, and Blu-ray smaller still.
Otto
On 29 March 2013 13:38, keith_w <keith_w@dslextreme.com > wrote:
> Fantastic link. I am amazed at how small everything is. The technology
> required (and delivered !) is even more unbelievable. What an engineering
> job !!
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Otto
On 29 March 2013 13:38, keith_w <keith_w@dslextreme.
> Fantastic link. I am amazed at how small everything is. The technology
> required (and delivered !) is even more unbelievable. What an engineering
> job !!
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:49 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"Otto Nikolaus" nikyzf
On 29 March 2013 13:20, OBrien <bco@hiwaay.net> wrote:
>
> I didn't mean that the data is at the +top+ of the label side, but it is a
> layer just under the label/metallic film. Here's an illustration (if
> attachments are allowed). If not, here's a link to the page.
>
> <http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/cd1.htm >
>
Yes, this is correct.
The whole point is that the "data side" is the side through which the data
layer is *accessed*, not the side it's nearest too. To use any other
meaning is confusing and misleading. ;)
Otto
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> I didn't mean that the data is at the +top+ of the label side, but it is a
> layer just under the label/metallic film. Here's an illustration (if
> attachments are allowed). If not, here's a link to the page.
>
> <http://electronics.
>
Yes, this is correct.
The whole point is that the "data side" is the side through which the data
layer is *accessed*, not the side it's nearest too. To use any other
meaning is confusing and misleading. ;)
Otto
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:17 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"OBrien" conorboru
On Fri, 29 Mar 2013 14:48:49 +0000, Otto Nikolaus wrote:
> The whole point is that the "data side" is the side through which the data
> layer is *accessed*, not the side it's nearest too. To use any other
> meaning is confusing and misleading. ;)
I see what you mean¡KI was thinking in terms of where the data is physically located on the disc because, I think, of the discussion about damaging the data.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
O'Brien ¡V¡V¡V ¡V... .-. .. . -.
> The whole point is that the "data side" is the side through which the data
> layer is *accessed*, not the side it's nearest too. To use any other
> meaning is confusing and misleading. ;)
I see what you mean¡KI was thinking in terms of where the data is physically located on the disc because, I think, of the discussion about damaging the data.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
O'Brien ¡V¡V¡V ¡V... .-. .. . -.
Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:55 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"Ardell Faul" computer_monitor_service_company
As one can see from the illustration of the disk in the link provided,
the aluminized layer is a lot closer to the "top", or label side, than
it is to the bottom, clear side. Some people turn cds upside down when
handling them, in the mistaken idea that this is better protection for
the data. The fact is, if you slide a CD over a small grain of sand
label side down, and put a scratch in the label side, chances are it
will affect the aluminized data layer, and your disk will never play again.
On the other hand, if you put a scratch on the bottom side where the
laser shines through to the aluminized data layer, your disk will
probably still be readable because the laser controller software can
adapt to that and the data is still intact.
Ardell Faul
Computer Monitor Service Inc.
Ardell's Laptop and PC Repair
10816 E. Mission Ave.,
Spokane Valley, Wa. 99206
ardell@icehouse.net
509-891-5188
On 3/29/2013 7:48 AM, Otto Nikolaus wrote:
>
> On 29 March 2013 13:20, OBrien <bco@hiwaay.net
> <mailto:bco%40hiwaay.net>> wrote:
>
> >
> > I didn't mean that the data is at the +top+ of the label side, but
> it is a
> > layer just under the label/metallic film. Here's an illustration (if
> > attachments are allowed). If not, here's a link to the page.
> >
> > <http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/cd1.htm >
> >
>
> Yes, this is correct.
>
> The whole point is that the "data side" is the side through which the data
> layer is *accessed*, not the side it's nearest too. To use any other
> meaning is confusing and misleading. ;)
>
> Otto
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
the aluminized layer is a lot closer to the "top"
it is to the bottom, clear side. Some people turn cds upside down when
handling them, in the mistaken idea that this is better protection for
the data. The fact is, if you slide a CD over a small grain of sand
label side down, and put a scratch in the label side, chances are it
will affect the aluminized data layer, and your disk will never play again.
On the other hand, if you put a scratch on the bottom side where the
laser shines through to the aluminized data layer, your disk will
probably still be readable because the laser controller software can
adapt to that and the data is still intact.
Ardell Faul
Computer Monitor Service Inc.
Ardell's Laptop and PC Repair
10816 E. Mission Ave.,
Spokane Valley, Wa. 99206
ardell@icehouse.
509-891-5188
On 3/29/2013 7:48 AM, Otto Nikolaus wrote:
>
> On 29 March 2013 13:20, OBrien <bco@hiwaay.net
> <mailto:bco%
>
> >
> > I didn't mean that the data is at the +top+ of the label side, but
> it is a
> > layer just under the label/metallic film. Here's an illustration (if
> > attachments are allowed). If not, here's a link to the page.
> >
> > <http://electronics.
> >
>
> Yes, this is correct.
>
> The whole point is that the "data side" is the side through which the data
> layer is *accessed*, not the side it's nearest too. To use any other
> meaning is confusing and misleading. ;)
>
> Otto
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:43 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"Barry Austern" barryaus
On Mar 29, 2013, at 7:57 AM, T Hopkins wrote:
> On Mar 28, 2013, at 12:45 PM, Earle Jones wrote:
>
> > Rubbing alcohol (ditto ethyl alcohol) is a relatively safe solvent.
>
> Safe for humans, but the devil to varnish, paint, and plastic. Don't drip on your nice wooden desktop or floor.
>
> Cheers,
> tod
I love the irony of your "cheers" in this message right after a discussion of ethyl alcohol. I've seen it in your other messages, but here it is totally appropriate :-)
--
Barry Austern
barryaus@fuse.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:03 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"Jim McGarvie" jgarv2002
Sorry if I gave that impression, but I never actually called OWC, just checked their website.
Jim
On Mar 28, 2013, at 11:05 PM, David Brostoff <davbro@earthlink.net > wrote:
On Mar 28, 2013, at 21:26 , Jim McGarvie <jim@mcgarvie.us > wrote:
> Actually it was DMS, not OWC, that I used. But your link seems to indicate OWC concurs with DMS.
Yes--I know you ordered the RAM from DMS but I thought you said that OWC had also said that your computer could take 16 GB and assumed you had called them. In any event as you say, OWC states the case pretty unequivocally in that article.
David
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim
On Mar 28, 2013, at 11:05 PM, David Brostoff <davbro@earthlink.
On Mar 28, 2013, at 21:26 , Jim McGarvie <jim@mcgarvie.
> Actually it was DMS, not OWC, that I used. But your link seems to indicate OWC concurs with DMS.
Yes--I know you ordered the RAM from DMS but I thought you said that OWC had also said that your computer could take 16 GB and assumed you had called them. In any event as you say, OWC states the case pretty unequivocally in that article.
David
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:42 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"David Brostoff" dcbrostoff
On Mar 29, 2013, at 01:26 , "N.A. Nada" <whodo678@comcast.net > wrote:
> I believe he mis-read the OWC site. It said that MBP could be upgraded to a maximum of up to 16 GB, but when you drill down to his model it says it can be upgraded to 8 GB.
Do you mean this page?
<http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Apple_MacBook_MacBook_Pro/Upgrade/DDR3 >
If so, it specifies that the 13.3" 2.4 GHz model, which I thought the OP mentioned he had, supports 16 GB.
David
> I believe he mis-read the OWC site. It said that MBP could be upgraded to a maximum of up to 16 GB, but when you drill down to his model it says it can be upgraded to 8 GB.
Do you mean this page?
<http://eshop.
If so, it specifies that the 13.3" 2.4 GHz model, which I thought the OP mentioned he had, supports 16 GB.
David
Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:57 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"Otto Nikolaus" nikyzf
On 29 March 2013 16:42, David Brostoff <davbro@earthlink.net > wrote:
>
> Do you mean this page?
> <
> http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Apple_MacBook_MacBook_Pro/Upgrade/DDR3
> >
>
> If so, it specifies that the 13.3" 2.4 GHz model, which I thought the OP
> mentioned he had, supports 16 GB.
>
EveryMac.com also says 16 GB, but this is based on what OWC say!
"*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However,
as confirmed<http://blog.macsales.com/16302-some-2010-mac-owners-can-get-more-ram-than-they-thought >
by
site sponsor OWC, *if* running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the
latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this
model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."
Otto
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Do you mean this page?
> <
> http://eshop.
> >
>
> If so, it specifies that the 13.3" 2.4 GHz model, which I thought the OP
> mentioned he had, supports 16 GB.
>
EveryMac.com also says 16 GB, but this is based on what OWC say!
"*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However,
as confirmed<http://blog.
by
site sponsor OWC, *if* running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the
latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this
model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."
Otto
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:08 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"David Brostoff" dcbrostoff
On Mar 28, 2013, at 20:15 , Jim McGarvie <jim@mcgarvie.us > wrote:
> He then informed me that the reason it wouldn't boot when I put my old 2 GB cards back in was because one of them was the wrong kind of memory and wouldn't work. When I informed him it had been working fine for over two years he didn't know what to say, other than maybe I zapped it with static electricity. I can't deny that possibility. So I'm typing on it now with a grand total of 2 GB of RAM. Typing is fine, of course, but other operations are noticeably sluggish. And I won't even attempt to run Windows under Parallel Desktop!
Is it more sluggish than when you first reported your problem? If it is about the same, it is possible that the original slowdown was caused by a failure of one of the 2 GB modules, long before you took either of them out.
David
> He then informed me that the reason it wouldn't boot when I put my old 2 GB cards back in was because one of them was the wrong kind of memory and wouldn't work. When I informed him it had been working fine for over two years he didn't know what to say, other than maybe I zapped it with static electricity. I can't deny that possibility. So I'm typing on it now with a grand total of 2 GB of RAM. Typing is fine, of course, but other operations are noticeably sluggish. And I won't even attempt to run Windows under Parallel Desktop!
Is it more sluggish than when you first reported your problem? If it is about the same, it is possible that the original slowdown was caused by a failure of one of the 2 GB modules, long before you took either of them out.
David
Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:46 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"Ian Gillis" ianjgillis
I want to upgrade my Mac Mini 2010 from OSX 10.6.8 to the latest release of
Mountain Lion. My reasons are that I've observed that the OS availability
seem to be able to jump over one big cat, but not two, and the next OS
major update will presumably be towards the end of 2013; I would also like
to tinker with the iCloud options.
This Mac Mini is the first modern Mac I've owned and updated to a new OS,
so I feel very vulnerable and inexperienced about approaching the upgrade
in a safe and logical manner that leaves me a fall-back position in the
event of disaster - this Mac is my only computer apart from an old iPad 1.
I live in rural France and Apple Stores are a long way away.
My system is summarised in the sig block. I have a 2TB back-up disk on the
Mini, holding Time Machine and Carbon Copy Cloner Backups. I've bought a
8GB flash drive to hold a disk image of the Snow Leopard Installer. I've
replaced almost all the PowerPC apps, leaving just Universal and Intel apps.
Please can someone direct me to an idiot's installation guide?
Is
http://lifehacker.com/5928780/how-to-burn-os-x-mountain-lion-to-a-dvd-or-usb-flash-drivea
good start?
regards,
--
 Ian Gillis
_______________________
Mac Mini 2010 OS 10.6.8
Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4 GHz
4GB RAM 500GB HD
Samsung Syncmaster 226BW
2 TB ext HD
iPad 1 16GB WiFi only iOS 5.1 <http://www.facebook.com/ian.gillis >
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Mountain Lion. My reasons are that I've observed that the OS availability
seem to be able to jump over one big cat, but not two, and the next OS
major update will presumably be towards the end of 2013; I would also like
to tinker with the iCloud options.
This Mac Mini is the first modern Mac I've owned and updated to a new OS,
so I feel very vulnerable and inexperienced about approaching the upgrade
in a safe and logical manner that leaves me a fall-back position in the
event of disaster - this Mac is my only computer apart from an old iPad 1.
I live in rural France and Apple Stores are a long way away.
My system is summarised in the sig block. I have a 2TB back-up disk on the
Mini, holding Time Machine and Carbon Copy Cloner Backups. I've bought a
8GB flash drive to hold a disk image of the Snow Leopard Installer. I've
replaced almost all the PowerPC apps, leaving just Universal and Intel apps.
Please can someone direct me to an idiot's installation guide?
Is
http://lifehacker.
good start?
regards,
--
 Ian Gillis
____________
Mac Mini 2010 OS 10.6.8
Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4 GHz
4GB RAM 500GB HD
Samsung Syncmaster 226BW
2 TB ext HD
iPad 1 16GB WiFi only iOS 5.1 <http://www.facebook
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:25 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"HAL9000" jrswebhome
I installed Mountain Lion on top of Snow Leopard. Runs fine. Just download the installer and follow the prompts. It's not a complicated process. WARNING: make a duplicate of the ML installer file. Save it. Then install ML. But if you don't remember, you can always download it again if you need to reinstall.
Afterwards, boot, holding Command(Apple)+R, and see the repair options. Use them to repair permissions. or your system.
--- In macsupportcentral@yahoogroups.com , Ian Gillis <tessel.bas@...> wrote:
>
> I want to upgrade my Mac Mini 2010 from OSX 10.6.8 to the latest release of
> Mountain Lion. My reasons are that I've observed that the OS availability
> seem to be able to jump over one big cat, but not two, and the next OS
> major update will presumably be towards the end of 2013; I would also like
> to tinker with the iCloud options.
>
> This Mac Mini is the first modern Mac I've owned and updated to a new OS,
> so I feel very vulnerable and inexperienced about approaching the upgrade
> in a safe and logical manner that leaves me a fall-back position in the
> event of disaster - this Mac is my only computer apart from an old iPad 1.
> I live in rural France and Apple Stores are a long way away.
>
> My system is summarised in the sig block. I have a 2TB back-up disk on the
> Mini, holding Time Machine and Carbon Copy Cloner Backups. I've bought a
> 8GB flash drive to hold a disk image of the Snow Leopard Installer. I've
> replaced almost all the PowerPC apps, leaving just Universal and Intel apps.
>
> Please can someone direct me to an idiot's installation guide?
> Is
> http://lifehacker.com/5928780/how-to-burn-os-x-mountain-lion-to-a-dvd-or-usb-flash-drivea
> good start?
>
> regards,
> --
>  Ian Gillis
> _______________________
> Mac Mini 2010 OS 10.6.8
> Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4 GHz
> 4GB RAM 500GB HD
> Samsung Syncmaster 226BW
> 2 TB ext HD
>
> iPad 1 16GB WiFi only iOS 5.1 <http://www.facebook.com/ian.gillis >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Afterwards, boot, holding Command(Apple)
--- In macsupportcentral@
>
> I want to upgrade my Mac Mini 2010 from OSX 10.6.8 to the latest release of
> Mountain Lion. My reasons are that I've observed that the OS availability
> seem to be able to jump over one big cat, but not two, and the next OS
> major update will presumably be towards the end of 2013; I would also like
> to tinker with the iCloud options.
>
> This Mac Mini is the first modern Mac I've owned and updated to a new OS,
> so I feel very vulnerable and inexperienced about approaching the upgrade
> in a safe and logical manner that leaves me a fall-back position in the
> event of disaster - this Mac is my only computer apart from an old iPad 1.
> I live in rural France and Apple Stores are a long way away.
>
> My system is summarised in the sig block. I have a 2TB back-up disk on the
> Mini, holding Time Machine and Carbon Copy Cloner Backups. I've bought a
> 8GB flash drive to hold a disk image of the Snow Leopard Installer. I've
> replaced almost all the PowerPC apps, leaving just Universal and Intel apps.
>
> Please can someone direct me to an idiot's installation guide?
> Is
> http://lifehacker.
> good start?
>
> regards,
> --
>  Ian Gillis
> ____________
> Mac Mini 2010 OS 10.6.8
> Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4 GHz
> 4GB RAM 500GB HD
> Samsung Syncmaster 226BW
> 2 TB ext HD
>
> iPad 1 16GB WiFi only iOS 5.1 <http://www.facebook
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Fri Mar 29, 2013 10:29 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"HAL9000" jrswebhome
One last point, NONE of your PowerPC software (early version OSX compatible) will run in Mountain Lion. If you are not sure which are PPC and which aren't, research before you install ML.
--- In macsupportcentral@yahoogroups.com , "HAL9000" <jrswebhome@...> wrote:
>
> I installed Mountain Lion on top of Snow Leopard. Runs fine. Just download the installer and follow the prompts. It's not a complicated process. WARNING: make a duplicate of the ML installer file. Save it. Then install ML. But if you don't remember, you can always download it again if you need to reinstall.
>
> Afterwards, boot, holding Command(Apple)+R, and see the repair options. Use them to repair permissions. or your system.
>
>
>
>
> --- In macsupportcentral@yahoogroups.com , Ian Gillis <tessel.bas@> wrote:
> >
> > I want to upgrade my Mac Mini 2010 from OSX 10.6.8 to the latest release of
> > Mountain Lion. My reasons are that I've observed that the OS availability
> > seem to be able to jump over one big cat, but not two, and the next OS
> > major update will presumably be towards the end of 2013; I would also like
> > to tinker with the iCloud options.
> >
> > This Mac Mini is the first modern Mac I've owned and updated to a new OS,
> > so I feel very vulnerable and inexperienced about approaching the upgrade
> > in a safe and logical manner that leaves me a fall-back position in the
> > event of disaster - this Mac is my only computer apart from an old iPad 1.
> > I live in rural France and Apple Stores are a long way away.
> >
> > My system is summarised in the sig block. I have a 2TB back-up disk on the
> > Mini, holding Time Machine and Carbon Copy Cloner Backups. I've bought a
> > 8GB flash drive to hold a disk image of the Snow Leopard Installer. I've
> > replaced almost all the PowerPC apps, leaving just Universal and Intel apps.
> >
> > Please can someone direct me to an idiot's installation guide?
> > Is
> > http://lifehacker.com/5928780/how-to-burn-os-x-mountain-lion-to-a-dvd-or-usb-flash-drivea
> > good start?
> >
> > regards,
> > --
> >  Ian Gillis
> > _______________________
> > Mac Mini 2010 OS 10.6.8
> > Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4 GHz
> > 4GB RAM 500GB HD
> > Samsung Syncmaster 226BW
> > 2 TB ext HD
> >
> > iPad 1 16GB WiFi only iOS 5.1 <http://www.facebook.com/ian.gillis >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
--- In macsupportcentral@
>
> I installed Mountain Lion on top of Snow Leopard. Runs fine. Just download the installer and follow the prompts. It's not a complicated process. WARNING: make a duplicate of the ML installer file. Save it. Then install ML. But if you don't remember, you can always download it again if you need to reinstall.
>
> Afterwards, boot, holding Command(Apple)
>
>
>
>
> --- In macsupportcentral@
> >
> > I want to upgrade my Mac Mini 2010 from OSX 10.6.8 to the latest release of
> > Mountain Lion. My reasons are that I've observed that the OS availability
> > seem to be able to jump over one big cat, but not two, and the next OS
> > major update will presumably be towards the end of 2013; I would also like
> > to tinker with the iCloud options.
> >
> > This Mac Mini is the first modern Mac I've owned and updated to a new OS,
> > so I feel very vulnerable and inexperienced about approaching the upgrade
> > in a safe and logical manner that leaves me a fall-back position in the
> > event of disaster - this Mac is my only computer apart from an old iPad 1.
> > I live in rural France and Apple Stores are a long way away.
> >
> > My system is summarised in the sig block. I have a 2TB back-up disk on the
> > Mini, holding Time Machine and Carbon Copy Cloner Backups. I've bought a
> > 8GB flash drive to hold a disk image of the Snow Leopard Installer. I've
> > replaced almost all the PowerPC apps, leaving just Universal and Intel apps.
> >
> > Please can someone direct me to an idiot's installation guide?
> > Is
> > http://lifehacker.
> > good start?
> >
> > regards,
> > --
> >  Ian Gillis
> > ____________
> > Mac Mini 2010 OS 10.6.8
> > Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4 GHz
> > 4GB RAM 500GB HD
> > Samsung Syncmaster 226BW
> > 2 TB ext HD
> >
> > iPad 1 16GB WiFi only iOS 5.1 <http://www.facebook
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
GROUP FOOTER MESSAGE
