7 New Messages
Digest #9101
Messages
Thu Sep 6, 2012 12:17 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"neelie" neeliec2000
--- In macsupportcentral@yahoogroups.com , Otto Nikolaus <otto.nikolaus@...> wrote:
>
> Do you know if they appear "broken", i.e., there are spaces or line-breaks
> within the URL? This happens quite often but can be fixed by reassembling
> the URL.
>
> Otto
>
> On 5 September 2012 05:16, neelie <neeliec2000@...> wrote:
>
> > I often copy URLs and paste them in emails to send to friends.
> >
> > Many times the copied URL does not result in an active link for the
> > receiver.
> >
> > I use Yahoo Mail on an iMac with 10.6.8 OS.
> >
> > What am I not doing, or doing incorrectly to make the URL not a viable
> > link when received?
Hello Otto,
The urls are intact...no spaces or line breaks. They look exactly like they should, except they are not underlined links that are clickable.
>
> Do you know if they appear "broken", i.e., there are spaces or line-breaks
> within the URL? This happens quite often but can be fixed by reassembling
> the URL.
>
> Otto
>
> On 5 September 2012 05:16, neelie <neeliec2000@
>
> > I often copy URLs and paste them in emails to send to friends.
> >
> > Many times the copied URL does not result in an active link for the
> > receiver.
> >
> > I use Yahoo Mail on an iMac with 10.6.8 OS.
> >
> > What am I not doing, or doing incorrectly to make the URL not a viable
> > link when received?
Hello Otto,
The urls are intact...no spaces or line breaks. They look exactly like they should, except they are not underlined links that are clickable.
Thu Sep 6, 2012 12:20 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"neelie" neeliec2000
--- In macsupportcentral@yahoogroups.com , Denver Dan <denver.dan@...> wrote:
>
> Howdy.
>
> Links can sometimes be stripped out of a message on its journey from
> source to target via multiple Internet servers and also by the great
> variety of computers, platforms, systems, versions, and email software
> in use that all have to get along but sometimes cannot.
>
> You might try putting Less Than and Greater Than symbols around the
> link. This can often, but not always, keep the link working for the
> recipient.
>
> <http://www.stampandshout.com >
>
> <http://www.macsurfer.com/ >
>
> <http://www.tuaw.com/ >
>
> Denver Dan
>
>
> On Wed, 05 Sep 2012 04:16:55 +0000, neelie wrote:
> > I often copy URLs and paste them in emails to send to friends.
> >
> > Many times the copied URL does not result in an active link for the
> > receiver.
> >
> > I use Yahoo Mail on an iMac with 10.6.8 OS.
> >
> > What am I not doing, or doing incorrectly to make the URL not a
> > viable link when received?
Hello Denver Dan,
Thank you for the suggestion. I'll give that idea a try the next time I have a url to send to someone.
neelie
>
> Howdy.
>
> Links can sometimes be stripped out of a message on its journey from
> source to target via multiple Internet servers and also by the great
> variety of computers, platforms, systems, versions, and email software
> in use that all have to get along but sometimes cannot.
>
> You might try putting Less Than and Greater Than symbols around the
> link. This can often, but not always, keep the link working for the
> recipient.
>
> <http://www.stampand
>
> <http://www.macsurfe
>
> <http://www.tuaw.
>
> Denver Dan
>
>
> On Wed, 05 Sep 2012 04:16:55 +0000, neelie wrote:
> > I often copy URLs and paste them in emails to send to friends.
> >
> > Many times the copied URL does not result in an active link for the
> > receiver.
> >
> > I use Yahoo Mail on an iMac with 10.6.8 OS.
> >
> > What am I not doing, or doing incorrectly to make the URL not a
> > viable link when received?
Hello Denver Dan,
Thank you for the suggestion. I'll give that idea a try the next time I have a url to send to someone.
neelie
Thu Sep 6, 2012 12:40 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"Don" don.96705
Dan
<OT>
I've been messing around with electric wiring for around 70 years. Replaced my first light switch when I was in kindergarden. Ran all the way home to replace the switch which my dad promised to have when I got home. Headed for the basement to pull the fuse. Dad asked where I was going and said "Wait; If you're old enough to replace the switch, you're old enough to do it hot." First job completed successfully. Wanted to be an electrician but the unions controlled the trade in Minneapolis MN, and you needed a relative in the union to apprentice. Became an aerospace software engineer instead.
<OT\>
Most outlets in my home have the ground pin on top. OK for everything but my AA battery charger. Polarized pins on the back, BUT in an outlet with the ground on top the AA's are plus terminal down. The data sheets for my AA's [several brands] say to charge only with plus terminal up. Had to flip a couple of outlets.
I have never been able to get a clear definition of an isolated ground circuit. Its obvious that a standard outlet in a metal box attached to a metal stud in NOT an isolated ground. Assume a plastic box and NM [Romex] wiring. The ground of any outlet is isolated from building ground at that point, does the outlet have to be listed as isolated ground? Where does the ground wire have to go? To the first junction box where it is attached to other ground wires with one wire on to the power panel? Separately to the power panel where it attaches with many others to the ground bus? Or all the way to the ground rod, an eight foot [yes eight foot, I tripped over one at Home Depot last month.] copper plated iron rod driven into the ground.
I have had problems with big computers not being properly grounded. One system had a tape controller and 8 tape drives that worked fine. Added 16 tape drives firmly bolted together, dozens of read/write errors per hour. The hardware support guys finally read the installation instructions and put in the big Teflon spacers between the cabinets. No reported errors in two years. At another site we had "isolated ground" circuits installed for three Ramtek graphics processors. A 24" x 24" x 30" box that did about half as much as a high end graphics card in a Mac Pro does now. One box would run fine, turn on a second and nothing readable on the CRT's. The electrician forgot to put the cover back on the power panel so I checked and saw only one green [ground] wire coming into the panel from the Ramtek's. Got separate grounds installed and everything worked great.
Hope I didn't ramble too much.
Don at 21.9N 159.6W
2 x 2.93 GHz Early 2009 Mac Pro
OS X 10.7.4
6GB RAM
On Sep 2, 2012, at 10:33, Denver Dan wrote:
> Howdy.
>
> Keith, ....
>
> The 15 amp 125 volt outlet with one taller blade slot and one shorter
> blade slot means the hot wire is always linked to the shorter blade
> slot and the neutral wire to the taller blade slot - this is called
> polarity I believe.
>
> While some neutral wires may be grounded the standard is for a 3 prong
> polarized outlet with a 3rd hole for the ground wire.
>
> Electricity enters via the hot blade/wire and exits via the neutral
> blade/wire.
>
> I have several of the 20 amp 125 volt isolated ground sockets in my
> house. The orange color generally (but not always) indicates an isolated
> ground socket....
>
> These three prong outlets were installed for years with the ground hole
> on the bottom. In recent years, they are being installed with the
> ground hole on the top (and now sometimes required by state electrical
> codes) on the theory that tools and items that fall and hit the plug
> may actually arc on the hot and neutral but if the ground prong is on
> the up side the tool (or whatever hits it) won't cause an arc and a
> short.
>
> Of course, most electrical cords and plugs are still designed and made
> to fit in a more convenient way when the ground prong is down.
>
> Denver Dan
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 07:26:49 -0700, keith_w wrote:
>> Furthermore, to answer the question of why a third prong that doesn't GO
>> anywhere, be advised that some manufacturers used to make use of a specific
>> prong of a duplex plug as it's hot or ground return lead. They designed
>> their inner circuitry accordingly.
>> That's why the advent of the single wider prong on many duplex plugs in
>> recent years. Did away with the need for that third prong.
>>
>> Why they did that...the reasoning behind it, I'm not knowledgeable about,
>> so that's just a semi-educated guess.
>>
>> keith whaley
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Group FAQ:
> <http://www.macsupportcentral.com/policies/ >
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
<OT>
I've been messing around with electric wiring for around 70 years. Replaced my first light switch when I was in kindergarden. Ran all the way home to replace the switch which my dad promised to have when I got home. Headed for the basement to pull the fuse. Dad asked where I was going and said "Wait; If you're old enough to replace the switch, you're old enough to do it hot." First job completed successfully. Wanted to be an electrician but the unions controlled the trade in Minneapolis MN, and you needed a relative in the union to apprentice. Became an aerospace software engineer instead.
<OT\>
Most outlets in my home have the ground pin on top. OK for everything but my AA battery charger. Polarized pins on the back, BUT in an outlet with the ground on top the AA's are plus terminal down. The data sheets for my AA's [several brands] say to charge only with plus terminal up. Had to flip a couple of outlets.
I have never been able to get a clear definition of an isolated ground circuit. Its obvious that a standard outlet in a metal box attached to a metal stud in NOT an isolated ground. Assume a plastic box and NM [Romex] wiring. The ground of any outlet is isolated from building ground at that point, does the outlet have to be listed as isolated ground? Where does the ground wire have to go? To the first junction box where it is attached to other ground wires with one wire on to the power panel? Separately to the power panel where it attaches with many others to the ground bus? Or all the way to the ground rod, an eight foot [yes eight foot, I tripped over one at Home Depot last month.] copper plated iron rod driven into the ground.
I have had problems with big computers not being properly grounded. One system had a tape controller and 8 tape drives that worked fine. Added 16 tape drives firmly bolted together, dozens of read/write errors per hour. The hardware support guys finally read the installation instructions and put in the big Teflon spacers between the cabinets. No reported errors in two years. At another site we had "isolated ground" circuits installed for three Ramtek graphics processors. A 24" x 24" x 30" box that did about half as much as a high end graphics card in a Mac Pro does now. One box would run fine, turn on a second and nothing readable on the CRT's. The electrician forgot to put the cover back on the power panel so I checked and saw only one green [ground] wire coming into the panel from the Ramtek's. Got separate grounds installed and everything worked great.
Hope I didn't ramble too much.
Don at 21.9N 159.6W
2 x 2.93 GHz Early 2009 Mac Pro
OS X 10.7.4
6GB RAM
On Sep 2, 2012, at 10:33, Denver Dan wrote:
> Howdy.
>
> Keith, ....
>
> The 15 amp 125 volt outlet with one taller blade slot and one shorter
> blade slot means the hot wire is always linked to the shorter blade
> slot and the neutral wire to the taller blade slot - this is called
> polarity I believe.
>
> While some neutral wires may be grounded the standard is for a 3 prong
> polarized outlet with a 3rd hole for the ground wire.
>
> Electricity enters via the hot blade/wire and exits via the neutral
> blade/wire.
>
> I have several of the 20 amp 125 volt isolated ground sockets in my
> house. The orange color generally (but not always) indicates an isolated
> ground socket....
>
> These three prong outlets were installed for years with the ground hole
> on the bottom. In recent years, they are being installed with the
> ground hole on the top (and now sometimes required by state electrical
> codes) on the theory that tools and items that fall and hit the plug
> may actually arc on the hot and neutral but if the ground prong is on
> the up side the tool (or whatever hits it) won't cause an arc and a
> short.
>
> Of course, most electrical cords and plugs are still designed and made
> to fit in a more convenient way when the ground prong is down.
>
> Denver Dan
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, 02 Sep 2012 07:26:49 -0700, keith_w wrote:
>> Furthermore, to answer the question of why a third prong that doesn't GO
>> anywhere, be advised that some manufacturers used to make use of a specific
>> prong of a duplex plug as it's hot or ground return lead. They designed
>> their inner circuitry accordingly.
>> That's why the advent of the single wider prong on many duplex plugs in
>> recent years. Did away with the need for that third prong.
>>
>> Why they did that...the reasoning behind it, I'm not knowledgeable about,
>> so that's just a semi-educated guess.
>>
>> keith whaley
>
>
> ------------
>
> Group FAQ:
> <http://www.macsuppo
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thu Sep 6, 2012 1:23 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"Josephine Bacon" baconandeggs_2001
Where can I get a cheap replacement keyboard for my aging Mac? Mine has several letters that have entirely disappeared and since I upgraded the system, the caps lock refuses to light up.
Josephine Bacon
Josephine Bacon
Thu Sep 6, 2012 6:08 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"T Hopkins" todhop
On Sep 6, 2012, at 3:40 AM, Don wrote:
> Hope I didn't ramble too much.
Well, I read all the way to this final apology, so I would say, "No." That was good stuff.
I'm quite curious about the AA charge position issue as most large chargers lay flat and I often charge upside down. But I don't discount the idea. Batteries are not digital devices. Orientation may well matter. I'm going to look into this.
Cheers,
tod
Tod Hopkins
Hillmann & Carr Inc.
todhopkins-at-hillmanncarr.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Hope I didn't ramble too much.
Well, I read all the way to this final apology, so I would say, "No." That was good stuff.
I'm quite curious about the AA charge position issue as most large chargers lay flat and I often charge upside down. But I don't discount the idea. Batteries are not digital devices. Orientation may well matter. I'm going to look into this.
Cheers,
tod
Tod Hopkins
Hillmann & Carr Inc.
todhopkins-at-
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thu Sep 6, 2012 6:55 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"OBrien" conorboru
On Thu, 6 Sep 2012 09:23:19 +0100, Josephine Bacon wrote:
> Where can I get a cheap replacement keyboard for my aging Mac? Mine
> has several letters that have entirely disappeared and since I
> upgraded the system, the caps lock refuses to light up.
The last time I bought an inexpensive replacement keyboard for an old G4, I got it at either Best Buy or CompUSA (it was awhile ago) for about US$20 something. It was a Kensington, and it worked just fine.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
O'Brien ––– –... .-. .. . -.
> Where can I get a cheap replacement keyboard for my aging Mac? Mine
> has several letters that have entirely disappeared and since I
> upgraded the system, the caps lock refuses to light up.
The last time I bought an inexpensive replacement keyboard for an old G4, I got it at either Best Buy or CompUSA (it was awhile ago) for about US$20 something. It was a Kensington, and it worked just fine.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
O'Brien ––– –... .-. .. . -.
Thu Sep 6, 2012 6:02 am (PDT) . Posted by:
"T Hopkins" todhop
On Sep 5, 2012, at 5:18 PM, Dane Reugger wrote:
> Maybe something
> like this will help?
Enquiring minds want to know. Don't forget to tell us if any of this works, or doesn't. The full restores sounds promising as this suggests the "error" is not necessarily triggered by the hardware change and might not even be a real lock-out.
In my top five trouble-shooting tips: Never forget that error messages lie!
Cheers,
tod
Tod Hopkins
Hillmann & Carr Inc.
todhopkins-at-hillmanncarr.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Maybe something
> like this will help?
Enquiring minds want to know. Don't forget to tell us if any of this works, or doesn't. The full restores sounds promising as this suggests the "error" is not necessarily triggered by the hardware change and might not even be a real lock-out.
In my top five trouble-shooting tips: Never forget that error messages lie!
Cheers,
tod
Tod Hopkins
Hillmann & Carr Inc.
todhopkins-at-
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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